Wherever I travel, my top priorities always have something to do with food—eating authentic cuisine of the land where I am visiting, eating dishes prepared by celebrity chefs who have carved out a name for themselves in the landscape of culinary clutter, eating anything that one can’t experience at home… In short, eating, eating, and still more eating, with maybe with a little sightseeing and shopping to burn a few calories between meals. While it is no mystery to anyone that my endless gastronomical pursuit in this world is rapidly starting to take its toll, especially around my equatorial region, one enigmatic question in my mind is why our Mexican restaurants here do not serve anything beyond the “standard” dishes—tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, nachos, fajitas, burritos and chimichangas (with some of these being more Tex Mex or Cali Mex).
For years, my knowledge of Mexican food was limited to a few items made from a few ingredients. However, my epiphany came while traveling overseas. After experiencing different yet authentic flavors, my world of Mexican food blew open past wraps and chips. There was a whole new realm and inhabited by mole, pozole, tlayuda, carnitas, menudo, amongst many preparations of seafood, including my favorite, camarones. The only problem was that this world did not exist in Hawaii.
Then, one day a few years ago, I stumbled across Serg’s Mexican Kitchen in Manoa. Its menu contained some Mexican dishes not found very readily on this island, most of which incorporated slow style cooking techniques. A beacon of hope appeared for Hawaii, and it spotlighted dishes such as carnitas, chilaquiles con carne, flautas and even one of my favorites, menudo…
The restaurant stands where an old gas station once existed, sharing a lot with Boston Pizza and Le Crepe Cafe. Despite being amidst a busy road leading into and out of a sleepy valley, the casual eatery has a rustic charm, complete with the occasional sighting of a neighborhood cat that has found some good handouts here. Serg’s is a counter service joint, but there are ample tables for those opting to dine in, especially for patrons who bring their own bottle of cervesa or vino.
While the concept of Serg’s is quite simple, the flavors are complex. The owner Sergio “Serg” Arellano, who had roots in Mexico City, received on-the-job training in the culinary arts by working in Las Vegas at a number of premier restaurants and hotels. He took to heart his parents’ teachings of slow style cooking and birthed a number of regional Mexican dishes, amongst which just a few of my favorites include:
1) Pollo a las Brazas ($10.25) – A half chicken marinated in Guajillo Orange chili rub that is broiled until it’s perfectly cooked, still retaining a juicy tenderness. This dish is extremely popular and on several occasions, I have been disappointed because the item was sold out by the time I got there. The slightly spiced flavors are tempered by the sweet orange flavored infusion. The entrée also comes with ranchero beans, rice and an avocado tomatillo salsa, giving a nice creamy yet acidic accent.
2) Rajas con Queso ($7.95) – Slices (rajas) of slow roasted poblano peppers sauteed with sour cream and corn, and then topped with Pico de Gallo and queso fresco. The tender mild peppers have an unresistable creaminess from the sauce and the fresh curd-like white cheese. The corn adds a burst of balanced sweetness, and some chopped cilantro infuses a beautiful fresh and herbaceous flavor. The chips are soft without being soggy.
3) Pork Carnitas ($10.25) – A family recipe, the carnitas are made from a very tender, slow roasted pork shoulder seasoned with special ingredients. The marbling of the pork just melts away, leaving a moist, perfectly salted shredded meat, slightly akin to Kalua pork without the smokiness. The salsa fresca, with the tomatoes and onions, adds that nice freshness and acidity, balancing the saltiness perfectly as the mixture of pork and salsa are rolled into the hot tortillas provided. Beans and rice, the common accompaniments are also included.
4) Mahimahi Veracruz ($10.25) – Grilled mahimahi sauteed in a Veracruz sauce, a spicy yet tangy slow-cooked tomato-based sauce flavored with garlic, onion, some herbs and green olives for a nice saltiness. The briny olives give an added more kick to the already racy dish, but the overall boldness of the sauce goes well with the accompanying rice and beans on the plate.
Serg’s Mexican Kitchen
Phone: (808) 988-8118
2740 East Manoa Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822
Business hours: Mon–Sat, 11:00 am – 9:00 pm; Sun, 8:00 am – 8:00 pm (brunch available)
Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard, JCB and Discover
8888sean 