Kan Zaman Spices Up Downtown Honolulu’s Dining Scene

I have the worst sense of timing.  For starters, I have no rhythm when it comes to music and dancing.  I’m shocked that no one has ever tried to pull me off the floor to administer CPR after seeing my poorly coordinated, convulsive dance moves.  Even in Las Vegas, I’m the one leaving a slot machine one pull before the jackpot.  As a matter of fact, right after I submitted my last article ranting about a lack of Middle Eastern restaurants in Hawaii, my friend Kamal Jemmari contacted me to invite me to a private tasting of his new Moroccan and Lebanese restaurant.  I had written a story about Kamal’s first establishment Shogunai Tajine, but had to replace it two days before the publication went to press because of a ruling that the condo in which the café was located no longer authorized non-residents to enter.  Again, bad timing.

Luckily for me, others have better luck with timing.  After months of meticulous planning, Kamal and his business partner Youssef Dakroub—owner and chef of the Xtreme Tacos food truck—decided to open up Kan Zaman.  Unlike Shogunai Tajine, Kan Zaman represents a venue accessible to all who wish to experience the delightful selection of dishes that incorporate influences from the birthplace of the Marrakesh-born Kamal, synthesized with recipes of his Lebanese colleague.

Upon entering Kan Zaman, the breathtaking interior establishes an exotic Moorish feel, with vibrant hues of teal, tangerine and crimson complementing the warm wooden furnishings.  A stenciled trellis-patterned wall takes the gaze up to the high vaulted ceiling to where elegant endless circle-latticed chandeliers illuminate the inviting space below.  Patrons are embraced by the warm aromas of exotic spices, almost transporting them to a Moroccan bazaar.  Just outside is an equally charming courtyard seating area incorporating a pre-existing wooden framework that makes for a perfect lunch or dinner setting on those breezy afternoons and evenings.

The food is equally impressive, being authentic and approachable.  Using a number of spice blends made by Kamal’s mother in Morocco, Kamal and Youssef developed a menu starting with traditional lentil and harira soups, and a modest selection of salads including tabouleh and fattoush.  There is also a variety of meze with more common finds as a garlicky and thick hummus, a smoky babaganoush and crispy falafel, but stretching the gamut to accommodate more exotic fare as warak inab (grape leaves stuffed with rice, mint, lemon and garlic vinaigrette), taktouka (cooked salad of tomatoes, bell peppers, olive oil, spices and herbs) and briwat (crispy phyllo pie filled with seafood and vermicelli).  For the main courses, a few tajine and couscous options are available, as are a shish kabob of perfectly grilled marinated cubes of beef and a shish taouk, which is a grilled chicken brochette.  Rounding out the selection are a few desserts, including the must-have baklava, with chopped almonds and walnuts sweetened and layered between sticky coated sheets of crispy and chewy phyllo pastry, as well as sweet oranges scented with sugar, cinnamon and orange blossom, and a katayef, which is an Arabic pancake topped with creamy banana sweetened with honey, which are all ideal with a pot of the addictively sweetened Moroccan mint tea.

Obviously, I did more than taste.  Being that I patiently waited months for Kamal’s flavorful expressions and since I’m never sure with my sense of timing, I thought gorging would give me a satisfaction to last me for months.  Instead, it established a craving that can only be staved off for days.

Recommended dishes:

1)  Tabouleh ($7.95) – Parsley salad with tomatoes, onions and bulgur wheat dressed simply with olive oil and lemon juice had clean, fresh flavors.

2)  Babaganoush ($7.95) – Charcoal grilled eggplant puree, tahini, lemon juice and olive oil made for a silky smooth spread.  Roasted sesame notes were perfectly integrated into the beautifully smoky eggplant flavors, finished with a bright acidity.

3)  Hummus ($6.95) – The chickpea and tahini puree was quite thick, with savory garlic and lemon notes.

4)  Briwat ($8.95) – Crispy on the outside, the briwat was stuffed with a moist filling of shrimp, squid and vermicelli.

5)  Chicken Tajine ($16.95) – The slow-braised moist chicken with preserved lemon, briny olives and saffron had savory touches of coriander, cumin and smoked paprika.

6) Lamb Couscous ($22.95) – The steamed couscous soaked up the flavorful broth enriched from the moist and fall-off-the-bone tender lamb shank with flavors and juices from the carrots, zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots and chickpeas.

7) Shish Kabob ($17.95) – Tender marinated cubes of beef were moist and perfectly seasoned and served on a bed of fragrant rice.

The charming Moorish décor full of vibrant colors and exotic aesthetics.

The outdoor open-air dining area.A light yet refreshing Moroccan Salad ($7.95) of mixed greens, fresh oranges, cucumbers and radishes drizzled with an orange blossom & honey vinaigrette and smoky Babaganoush ($7.95) served with pita.The Shish Kabob ($17.95) on a bed of basmati rice and the Lamb Couscous ($22.95) in a flavorful broth with lamb shank, pumpkin, zucchini, tomatoes, chickpeas and root vegetables. Sweet endings with the Katayef ($4.95), Baklava ($3.50) and Moroccan mint tea ($6.00 for a pot)

Kan Zaman                            Phone:  (808) 554-3847

1028 Nuuanu Avenue

Business hours:  Mon – Thu, 11:00 am – 2:30 pm (Lunch) & 5:00 – 9:30 pm (Dinner); Fri-Sat, 11:00 am – 2:30 pm (Lunch) & 5:00 – 10:30 pm (Dinner)

Credit cards:  Visa, MasterCard, JCB, Discover

Casablanca: B’stilla My Heart

Some restaurants have an ability to transport me to another place, an exotic far away land with cultures so mysterious and food so intriguing.  One such place is Casablanca, my Mediterranean mini-getaway.

While being in the heart of Kailua town does not exactly make it such a remote locale (well, maybe for some of us Honolulu townies who are not accustomed to a commute taking longer than 15 minutes), the Moroccan restaurant’s ambiance immediately transforms one’s sense of place the moment one steps in.  The walls and floor are graced with beautiful Persian rugs, while ceilings are adorned with tent-like drapery, sofas and cushions designed with tasteful flamboyance, and wooden tables decorated with intricate inlays.

The menu concept is simple–there are only two set meals.  While both offer four sumptuous courses, with the prix fixe priced at $39.75, and the House special at $42.75, the latter replaces the regular entrée option with the special of the evening.  The restaurant is BYOB, so guests are invited to bring their own wine and beer.

Once the courses have been ordered, an attendant greets customers with a tass, an ornate hand washing kettle and basin.  Guests are honored with a ceremonial bathing of the hands as the attendant pours water from the kettle over the collecting basin.  Towels, not napkins, are provided to everyone to dry their hands, which must be clean as Moroccans use their right hands to pick up food.  (Wiping hands on napkins is considered impolite, although I secretly did on my towel before finally asking for utensils, which are available for foreigners incapable of accommodating to the native culture.)

The first course is a Harira soup, a tomato and lentil broth possessing deep earthy flavors scented with saffron, parsley and cilantro.  The soup goes well with the next course, a melange of salad items.

The shared salad platter consists of:  baba ghanoush, a beautifully smoky, yet tart mashed eggplant salad with tomato and spices; tabouleh, a fresh and herbaceous salad of couscous with chopped parsley, tomatoes and cucumbers; hummus, a creamy dip made from pureed chickpeas with olive oil and tahini, or ground lightly roasted and hulled sesame seed paste; olives; a marinated carrot salad, which are sweet but livened with a flavorful spicing; and a roasted marinated red peppers and tomato salad, which has a bright vinegary acidity, refreshing the palate.  To pick up the various salads and dips are whole wheat breads.

The third course is a b’stilla, a baked phyllo pastry pie stuffed with saffron chicken, almonds and eggs, and topped lightly with powdered sugar and cinnamon.  The first bite tastes a little dessert-like, but once the filling reveals its rich savory flavors, the moist saffron-scented chicken and nutty crunchiness brings forth a lovely sweet and savory balance.

Then come the entrees, of which some of the choices include:

A)  Cornish Hen with Prunes and Honey – The Cornish Hens are mildly sweet with prune and honey notes.  A little dry, though tender, the hens are further sweetened by Turkish apricots and have a delicate almond nuttiness.

B)  Lamb Tagine with Honey – The tagine-prepared lamb is pleasantly sweet without being cloying.  The tender and moist lamb shank’s meat falls off the bone and any gaminess from the lamb is delicately displaced by the honey.

C)  Rack of lamb – The special of the evening, the rack of lamb, is certainly the top dish.  Seasoned with breadcrumbs and herbs and dressed with a sauce, the peppercorns, cilantro, onion, turmeric, saffron, salt, pepper, dried ginger flavors make for a pleasantly piquant accent to a moist and tender lamb.  Served with couscous topped with a ragout of vegetables including butternut squash and cauliflower, this entree selection is almost always the most popular dish of our repeated visits.

For dessert, the waiter brings forth a platter of chabbabia, or a deep-fried funnel cake dipped in honey, some baklava, phyllo pastry stuffed with a sweetened pistachio filling, and some biscuits, along with cups of fresh mint tea.  Each guest is blessed with a splash of fragrant orange blossom water, though a big drop will occasionally spatter right in the center of my forehead, bringing me back to a sobering reality that, as the host, I am usually responsible for the bill.  Fortunately, the bill is always reasonable, and while the restaurant sadly does not have any belly dancing performances, one thing is for certain—with all the swollen, content bellies, the only thing really missing in the end is the dancing—and with enough alcohol, that part is optional.

Casablanca

19 Hoolai Street, Kailua, Hawaii  96734

Phone:  (808) 262-8196

Business hours:  Tue – Sat, 6:00 – 10:00pm (last order at 9:30pm)

Credit cards accepted:  Visa and MasterCard

Serg’s Mexican Kitchen – Slow Style of Cooking in a Sleepy Part of Town

Wherever I travel, my top priorities always have something to do with food—eating authentic cuisine of the land where I am visiting, eating dishes prepared by celebrity chefs who have carved out a name for themselves in the landscape of culinary clutter, eating anything that one can’t experience at home… In short, eating, eating, and still more eating, with maybe with a little sightseeing and shopping to burn a few calories between meals. While it is no mystery to anyone that my endless gastronomical pursuit in this world is rapidly starting to take its toll, especially around my equatorial region, one enigmatic question in my mind is why our Mexican restaurants here do not serve anything beyond the “standard” dishes—tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, nachos, fajitas, burritos and chimichangas (with some of these being more Tex Mex or Cali Mex).

For years, my knowledge of Mexican food was limited to a few items made from a few ingredients. However, my epiphany came while traveling overseas. After experiencing different yet authentic flavors, my world of Mexican food blew open past wraps and chips. There was a whole new realm and inhabited by mole, pozole, tlayuda, carnitas, menudo, amongst many preparations of seafood, including my favorite, camarones. The only problem was that this world did not exist in Hawaii.

Then, one day a few years ago, I stumbled across Serg’s Mexican Kitchen in Manoa. Its menu contained some Mexican dishes not found very readily on this island, most of which incorporated slow style cooking techniques. A beacon of hope appeared for Hawaii, and it spotlighted dishes such as carnitas, chilaquiles con carne, flautas and even one of my favorites, menudo…

The restaurant stands where an old gas station once existed, sharing a lot with Boston Pizza and Le Crepe Cafe. Despite being amidst a busy road leading into and out of a sleepy valley, the casual eatery has a rustic charm, complete with the occasional sighting of a neighborhood cat that has found some good handouts here. Serg’s is a counter service joint, but there are ample tables for those opting to dine in, especially for patrons who bring their own bottle of cervesa or vino.

While the concept of Serg’s is quite simple, the flavors are complex. The owner Sergio “Serg” Arellano, who had roots in Mexico City, received on-the-job training in the culinary arts by working in Las Vegas at a number of premier restaurants and hotels. He took to heart his parents’ teachings of slow style cooking and birthed a number of regional Mexican dishes, amongst which just a few of my favorites include:

1) Pollo a las Brazas ($10.25) – A half chicken marinated in Guajillo Orange chili rub that is broiled until it’s perfectly cooked, still retaining a juicy tenderness. This dish is extremely popular and on several occasions, I have been disappointed because the item was sold out by the time I got there. The slightly spiced flavors are tempered by the sweet orange flavored infusion. The entrée also comes with ranchero beans, rice and an avocado tomatillo salsa, giving a nice creamy yet acidic accent.

2) Rajas con Queso ($7.95) – Slices (rajas) of slow roasted poblano peppers sauteed with sour cream and corn, and then topped with Pico de Gallo and queso fresco. The tender mild peppers have an unresistable creaminess from the sauce and the fresh curd-like white cheese. The corn adds a burst of balanced sweetness, and some chopped cilantro infuses a beautiful fresh and herbaceous flavor. The chips are soft without being soggy.

3) Pork Carnitas ($10.25) – A family recipe, the carnitas are made from a very tender, slow roasted pork shoulder seasoned with special ingredients. The marbling of the pork just melts away, leaving a moist, perfectly salted shredded meat, slightly akin to Kalua pork without the smokiness. The salsa fresca, with the tomatoes and onions, adds that nice freshness and acidity, balancing the saltiness perfectly as the mixture of pork and salsa are rolled into the hot tortillas provided. Beans and rice, the common accompaniments are also included.

4) Mahimahi Veracruz ($10.25) – Grilled mahimahi sauteed in a Veracruz sauce, a spicy yet tangy slow-cooked tomato-based sauce flavored with garlic, onion, some herbs and green olives for a nice saltiness. The briny olives give an added more kick to the already racy dish, but the overall boldness of the sauce goes well with the accompanying rice and beans on the plate.

Serg’s Mexican Kitchen

Phone: (808) 988-8118

2740 East Manoa Road

Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

Business hours: Mon–Sat, 11:00 am – 9:00 pm; Sun, 8:00 am – 8:00 pm (brunch available)

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard, JCB and Discover

Govinda’s Vegetarian Buffet: A Slice of the Hare Krishna Way of Life

Healthy, vegetarian, vegan…these are words that scare the gourmet in me. They represent a way of life I should be living and one day aspire to achieve, but for now, my love for new experiences and the gamut of flavors the world has to offer cringes at the mere mention of these words. Perhaps it’s because the stigma; these ideals are often associated with blandness, insatiability and tree-hugging. However, one place taught me that nothing is further than the truth than this.

Govinda’s Vegetarian Buffet was evidence that vegetarian and vegan dishes can be delicious, and there are substitutes for ingredients that, while altering the flavor of a dish, may actually be more than just palatable. Located in the International Society for Krishna Consciousness Temple in Nu’uanu (Honolulu)—yes, a Hare Krishna temple, the restaurant sat adjacent to a store filled with Indian clothing and accessories. All visitors to the temple were required to take their footwear off, but had the option to eat indoors in their casual dining room, or take their meals outside and dine in a serene garden under the cool shade of a large banyan tree.

The $10 buffet offered a modest selection but was still quite a deal. The first item was a salad of greens, with a wide variety of healthy dressings, including a few vegan choices for those true to form—sunflower Italian seasoning, tamarind sauce, toasted sesame sour cream, red creamy French dressing (made with sour cream) and hot sauce with cilantro, tomato, chili. There was also a hearty soup and on that particular Thursday, it was a green split pea soup, rich with cilantro, cloves, cumin and coriander. A red Thai tofu curry, homemade rolls, brown rice perfumed with turmeric, a daily special and dessert rounded out the mix. The red Thai tofu curry was loaded with cabbage, green beans, peas, carrots, cauliflower and firm tofu in a rich coconut milk based curry.

Some of my favorite highlights from the buffet included:

1) Eggless quiche – The best dish on the buffet was the daily special. With a deliciously creamy, broccoli and cauliflower and cream cheese mix baked on a crumbly crust, almost everyone at our table went up for seconds.

2) Hallawa – Made with farina (somewhat similar to cream of wheat), this dessert changed daily but Thursday’s flavor was banana. The rich, creamy rice pudding-like textured Hallawa was lightly scented with bananas, giving this dessert a very healthy yet flavorful appeal.

3) Ginger mint lemonade – A refreshing beverage made with muddled mint sprigs, ginger and lemons, this drink was sweet but kept me coming for more.

I went to Govinda’s Vegetarian Buffet with many preconceived notions about healthy, vegetarian and vegan food, as well as a feeling of apprehension, expecting there to be clamoring parades of people chanting or singing. However, I left satisfied with the hearty meal and a little more education, lending me a newfound appreciation for a peaceful way of life to which some dedicate their entire being. While I don’t plan on changing my religion anytime soon, I feel a small part of me transformed. Perhaps one day if I were to become vegetarian, vegan, or just plain healthy, I have a warming reassurance that there is an inviting place on Oahu that may help me in my dietary transition.

Govinda’s Vegetarian Buffet Phone: (808) 595-4913

51 Coelho Way, Honolulu, Hawaii 96817

Business hours: Mon – Fri 11:00am to 2:00pm; Sun – free vegetarian meal at 7:30pm during open house

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, JCB, Discover

A Culinary Shangri-La at Mai Lan (Honolulu, Hawaii)

Mai Lan could very well be one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants frequented by Japanese visitors, celebrities and media crews and Hawaii locals alike. Therefore, to simply do an introductory review on this remarkable eatery would probably be as unoriginal as it would be uninteresting.

For those who keep coming back to Mai Lan, common associations with the restaurant include the informal décor graced by images of Japanese celebrities, the colorful and whimsical owner and chef Sam who brightens up the room with his gregarious and endearing spirit, the heavenly coconut milk-scented crab curry found ordered at practically every table in the house, the complimentary tropical fruits served as the denouement of each meal, the charming waithelp duo who barely understand any English or Japanese but who kindly nod in acknowledgement at everything one says or asks, and the infamous private party room–partly turned storage–dedicated to Sam’s dear friend and actor, Takakura Ken from the motion picture Black Rain.

However, beneath this strata of shared experiences is a secret world to which a select few are exposed—the hidden menu. Past the sea of the savory won ton soup, beyond the village of the mouthwatering chili sauce catfish and through the nam pla flavored ong choi forest lies an Elysian list of foods passed on by spoken word. For years, this Shangri-La of culinary delight has been ordered by those who are a part of an exclusive membership mostly comprised of media industry insiders.

The menu is quite extensive, composed of a number of dishes including bean sprouts or string beans cooked with crunchy fried shirauo (little white fish sometimes referrd to as Japanese anchovies), lobster look funn noodles, and also lobster and long rice soup. However, the following are personal favorites:

1) Lemongrass-scented Lamb Chops ($6.50 per lamb chop) – Lamb chops seasoned with garlic, lemongrass, chili and salt are grilled beautifully, with all the fragrant natural juices still retained by the tender morsels. Because every diner seems to crave for more, one chop per person serves as a perfect amuse bouche, tempting the palate for what lies ahead.

2) Takakura Ken Fried Rice ($11.50) – Being that Vietnamese are not known to make fried rice, this dish was unorthodox yet pleasantly flavorful. While it was a simple fried rice consisting of shrimp, lopchong (Chinese sausage), egg and green onions, the flavors of each individual ingredient contributed its part, as instruments in a Philharmonic orchestra. Sweet nuances from the lopchong, light brininess from the shrimp, a mild onion bite from the scallions and soft scrambled egg flavors created such well-rounded flavors to the slightly salty sweet sauce mixed with the fried rice. Unlike its Cantonese counterpart, this dish was delicate and light, and above all, not oily.

3) Ali’i Mushroom Soup ($14 for two people) – This eryngi, or King Oyster mushroom, soup uses pork and chicken as the soup base, but is accented by Kinka ham, shredded dried scallops, Chinese parsley and pepper. The deep, clear brown broth seems to be rich in collagen, and has incredible depth of flavor with a peppery finish. The spongy slices of eryngi, tender bits of cured ham and crisp cilantro also add beautiful textures in addition to contributing alluring earthy, smoky and herbaceous flavors to the meaty flavored soup.

While this article may be a basic treasure map to a few key gems at Mai Lan, let Sam guide you all the way. Fortunately, there is no secret handshake or special code word to let you in on this inner circle, so simply ask him for his recommendations and he is sure to oblige. Be warned that he only selects quality ingredients, so certain dishes may not be available every day. Regardless of what you order from the hidden selection, by the end of the meal, your guests will feel extra special while you appear to be a long-time regular and uber-special VIP.

Mai Lan Phone: (808) 955-0446

1224 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu, Hawaii 96814

Business hours: Sun – Sat, 10:00am – 9:30pm

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard, JCB, American Express , Diner’s Club